Each of the stroke profiles will give a different result. The percentage used to describe them is related to the amount of their cycle the needles are spent in the skin (extended). The smaller the percentage, the faster the needles are extended and retracted, which allows for faster hand movement across the skin.

These are our generally recommended uses for each of the cams:

• 20% – Liner and/or fast hand movements
• 28% – Faster Shader or color blender
• 33% – Multi-pass blender or slower shader/color-blender
• 40% – Packer or very slow shader/blender

There are a series of bumps and lines on the top of each cam (the cone shaped section). The bumps are indicative of the stroke profiles, and the lines are to indicate the stroke lengths.

This is how they are designated:

• 1 bump: 20% – Liner and/or fast hand movements
• 2 bumps: 28% – Faster Shader or color blender
• 3 bumps: 33% – Multi-pass blender or slower shader/color-blender
• 4 bumps: 40% – Packer or very slow shader/blender

1 line: 2.75mm stroke
2 lines: 3.6mm stroke
3 lines: 4.2mm stroke

Different people have varied results from the different cams and tend to have their own preferences. For this reason, we include all 4 stroke profiles with every new machine purchased. This way, each artist can experiment to determine which cam is best for them. We set up all new machines with the 20% cam, and we recommend all artists try this one first. We feel it is best to get accustomed to each cam before experimenting with the next one for best results. When it comes to stroke length, this is simply a matter of preference with this machine. We always recommend the 3.6mm because it is the most versatile and your machine will perform its best with that stroke length.

Each grip configuration has an effect, not only on the ergonomics, but also on the weight and balance of the machine. Aluminum is the lightest, then steel, and that leaves brass being the heaviest option.

For lighter/softer tattooing we recommend using an aluminum grip. Steel and brass, being heavier, will provide some support against the skin, requiring less force being applied by the hand. This can make longer sessions easier on the artists hand since they do not need to grip the machine as hard and can relax their hand. Be cautious when ordering 38mm steel and brass, as the weight is dramatically more than that of smaller grips.

We also recommend the “Shift” grips for a dual-position option which allows for altering gripping positions to reduce hand fatigue and allow for different artistic effects.

The Bearing Arms also play a part when determining the best configuration for a given style. For most styles of tattooing, we recommend the brass Bearing Arm for a more direct hit, but if an artist prefers the softest possible hit, an aluminum Bearing Arm can be preferred. They can be ordered separately and come with all machine packages.

Mostly, the different grips are a matter of preference, but of course these differences are what makes the configurations preferred.

Cams adjust both stroke length as well as stroke profile. Cams come in sets of 4 for each stroke length. That means there are a total of 12 cams, 4 for each stroke length. Generally, an artist will choose a preferred stroke length, and then they can switch between the 4 different cams to change stroke profiles as needed. Cams are swapped without the need for any tools.

Some artists prefer to have more than one machine (each machine having a different stroke profile) to avoid the need for swapping, but it is only a matter of convenience since the switch takes only a few seconds.

The End Cap, which is the smaller “knob” towards the top of the machine (opposite side of the cartridge) can be turned against the grip to achieve a different throw. This is different from stroke length. Stroke length determines the maximum amount of needle throw available, as well as the speed of a cycle with a given voltage applied. In contrast, the throw is the amount of stroke that is being used, or the exposure of the needle beyond the end of the tube tip when it is in its extended position.

Generally, we will ship orders within 1-2 business days of your order. Sometimes we can get orders out the same day as your order, if it is in stock and not after the shipping cutoff time of 2:30pm PST. If your order will take longer than that for any reason, we will reach out to you to let you know and give you options to adjust your order as needed.

Neuma Steel has both a steel grip and steel motor assembly, whereas the Neuma 4 with a steel grip has an aluminum motor assembly. The steel motor assembly in the Neuma Steel adds some weight to the overall machine and also moves the center of gravity of the machine toward the top of the machine (away from the cartridge) a little.

The steel motor assembly can also be configured with an aluminum grip to move that center of gravity as high as possible, which allows for a “whippier” type feeling. The lower the center of gravity the better for stable, controlled, planted feeling. Conversely, the higher it is, the looser and flowy it will feel.

Aluminum is the lightest option. However, it is also less dense and so more vibration will be felt. The steel is denser and hard and will reduce vibration as well as plant the machine more in your hand, allowing for greater stability. The brass is even heavier and absorbs vibration very well, allowing for a very smooth, stable, and planted feeling.

Aluminum is either powder-coated or anodized. Powder-coated grips (vine, white, grey) as well as plated grips (pewter) cannot be autoclaved and can only be cold-sterilized. Anodized grips can be autoclaved, but can wear the anodize off over time, so we recommend cold sterilization unless the grip has a contamination event that requires autoclaving.

Steel is polished and autoclavable, as well as cold-sterilizable, without limitation.

Brass is polished to a high degree but will patina (corrode and change color/luster) after time, regardless of how clean it is kept. Brass will also not do well in an autoclave and will corrode fast. It is only a matter of appearance and does not affect the degree to which it is sterile. Brass is naturally anti-microbial and is considered a safe metal to work with. Brass can be polished back to its original shine with a buffer.

We prefer to recommend higher quality batteries with consistent and reliable output, such as Critical batteries. However, Neuma machines operate very well with almost all brands of batteries. We recommend using cylindrical-shaped batteries that do not greatly alter the machine’s shape or weight and balance, and one that can be adjusted in .1V increments.

Yes, 2 card can be used but will need to be done over the phone.

Please call us at (888) 370-0005 and we will be happy to take your order directly.

These are our generally recommended uses for each of the cams:

• 20% – Liner and/or fast hand movements
• 28% – Faster Shader or color blender
• 33% – Multi-pass blender or slower shader/color-blender
• 40% – Packer or very slow shader/blender

Different people have varied results from the different cams and tend to have their own preferences. For this reason, we include all 4 stroke profiles with every new machine purchased. This way, each artist can experiment to determine which cam is best for them. We set up all new machines with the 20% cam, and we recommend all artists try this one first. We feel it is best to get accustomed to each cam before experimenting with the next one for best results. When it comes to stroke length, this is simply a matter of preference with this machine. We always recommend the 3.6mm because it is the most versatile and your machine will perform its best with that stroke length.

The heavy-duty spring, in most cases, is not necessary. The circumstances which will potentially require the use of a heavy-duty spring are:

• An artist who operates their machine at very high speeds
• An artist who uses a very short throw

Regular wear parts are designed to last a long time, but will occasionally require replacement, depending on how a given artist uses the machine. The harder a machine is run, the faster these parts will wear out. Also, when a machine is properly oiled (every 50-100 hours of operation, 1 drop into the cams center hole) it will have a longer lifespan. Wear parts include Cams, Bearing Arms, Springs, RCAs, and Motors. NOTE: Motors will last a very long time when cared for but are expensive to replace. If a machine is dropped it can cause immediate irreparable damage to a motor. Also- do not apply any pressure to the motor shaft in any direction (the center post that the cam slides onto).

Our two Bearing Arm options are a 1-gram Aluminum Bearing Arm and a 5-gram Brass Bearing Arm. The heavier the Bearing Arm, the harder the hit. We recommend the Brass Bearing Arm for everyone, but if you prefer the lightest possible hit, then you might prefer the aluminum one. All machines come standard with the Brass bearing Arm.

All machines come standard with the Brass bearing Arm. However, if you prefer that your machine come with an aluminum one, you can (1) call in your order at (888) 370-0005 or (2) you can also specify that in the customer notes section during checkout in the online store.

Although we used to make pneumatic tattoo machines many years ago, all our machines are now made using electric motors (the best motors on the market). If you have any questions about our previous pneumatic machines, feel free to reach out and we will help any way we can.

All our machines come with all 4 stroke profiles, and all parts needed to operate the machine. (Power supply or battery, cartridge, cord sold separately)

Oiling is an important part of Neuma maintenance, and it should be done every 50-100 hours of operation. We recommend using only the provided oil and cleaning out the inner cavity and cam each time you oil as well. Be careful not to put any pressure on the center motor shaft or bend the side Anti-Rotation Pin while cleaning. Also, be aware that if you are regularly switching between cams that each of the cams need to be oiled separately.

Remove the cam to be oiled, flip it over so that you are looking at the hole in the back of it where the motor shaft inserts into, and drop one drop of oil into that hole. Then replace the cam onto the motor shaft, being careful not to apply any pressure to the shaft.

To keep your machine operating strong and efficiently, here are a few things to do:

• Oil regularly (every 50-100 hours of operation or between cam switches if not previously oiled)
• Clean the inner cavity regularly (every time oiled, or 50-100 hours) with a Q-tip. Occasionally, you can remove the bearing arm with the provided alan key and do a thorough cleaning by wetting a Q-tip with alcohol, being careful not to allow alcohol to get into the center hole/motor chamber.
• Visually check the side Anti-Rotation Pin to be sure it is still straight up and against the side wall of the cam chamber. Be careful not to bend this when cleaning.
• Keep spring stretched to a length of 2 inches for proper tension. They can eventually become a bit shorter but can easily be stretched back to length.

This is a normal process that happens to oil, and nothing to become concerned about. It is due to a process called lipid peroxidation, and it is unavoidable. We recommend using a Q-tip occasionally to wipe away old oil and re-oil your cams.

You will not notice a significant change when switching from coils regarding needle-action. Mostly, you will notice the change in weight distribution, ergonomics, and a reduction in maintenance and no need for tuning.

Neuma Tattoo Machines will feel quite different from traditional rotary-style tattoo machines, both in the weight distribution and balance, as well as the way the machine tattoos and the feel of the hit. They will feel very “snappy”, a big improvement in lining ability and speed, and usually they will increase your efficiency and speed at which you get your work done. Neuma machines do make more sound than traditional rotary machines, which we feel can be very useful as a form of audible feedback. They sound like a much quieter version of a coil machine.

Yes, please refer to our Support page, under the section titled “Where to buy” for all our distributors. If you are a distributor and wish to enquire about becoming a Neuma Distributor, please refer to the Company page under the section titled “Become a Distributor”.

Only some Neuma grips can be autoclaved. If you autoclave a Motor Assembly, it will cause irreparable damage to the motor and require replacement.

Aluminum grips are either powder-coated or anodized. Powder-coated grips (vine, white, grey) as well as plated grips (pewter) cannot be autoclaved and can only be cold-sterilized. Anodized grips can be autoclaved, but can wear the anodize off over time, so we recommend cold sterilization unless the grip has a contamination event that requires autoclaving.

Steel is polished and autoclavable, as well as cold-sterilizable, without limitation.

Brass is polished to a high degree but will patina (corrode and change color/luster) after time, regardless of how clean it is kept. Brass will also not do well in an autoclave and will corrode fast. It is only a matter of appearance and does not affect the degree to which it is sterile. Brass is naturally anti-microbial and is considered a safe metal to work with. Brass can be polished back to its original shine with a buffer.

Grips that cannot be autoclaved are:

• Brass
• Vine
• White
• Gray
• Pewter
• Any other powder-coated grips

Yes, it is safe to cold-sterilize all Neuma grips by soaking them with madacide, wavacide, cavacide, or similar. Do not use bleach. It is harmful to Neuma components and not a sufficient sanitizer. Also, do not submerge motor assemblies as this will cause irreparable damage to the motor inside and require replacement. Motors are not covered by warranty because we cannot guarantee they are properly cared for, but they can be replaced without the need for buying a new machine or motor assembly.

The spring can be left on the grip for sterilization but will corrode faster than the other materials and will eventually need replacement. Also, springs are not covered under warranty as they are wear parts.